
Stringing Materials
This section discusses the various materials used in jewelry making. I have not tried all of the products on the market, so if a material is not listed, it is because I don’t have any experience with it. The materials best suited to a project are based on the following criteria: style of beading (bead weaving, stringing, multiple strand, etc.), type of beads, durability (necklace vs. bracelet), personal preference and cost.
Jewelry wire is the mainstay of strung jewelry. It can be used with all types of beads. It is the sturdiest material available and is attached to clasps using crimp beads. Jewelry wire is actually a cable of braided wire strands that is coated with a plastic layer. It comes in various diameters and number of strands. The diameter of the wire gives it strength. The number of wire strands (7 to 49 strands) determines how the jewelry wire will resist kinks. 49-strand jewelry wire is the highest quality, but the 21-strand wire will suit most purposes. It also comes in many other colors.
|
Size |
Diameter |
Best Usage |
|
Fine |
0.010” – 0.012” |
Delicate necklaces, use with pearls or beads that have tiny holes. |
|
Medium |
0.014” – 0.016” |
Good for most projects. Avoid very heavy beads. |
|
Heavy |
0.018” – 0.21” |
All-around favorite. May not fit through all pearls or tiny holes. |
|
Ex-Heavy |
0.024” – 0.026” |
Good for very heavy beads. Doesn’t work with small hole beads. |
Beading Thread is used mostly for bead weaving but can be used for bead stringing. It is great for making multi-strand necklaces of tiny beads and seed beads but can break. It is attached to clasps using french wire, clam-shells, bead caps, or knotted and hidden in end cones. Thread has great draping qualities, but its weakness is in strength and rough edges. There are great new products now that greatly reduce the risks of breakage, and can even be used safely in bracelets. Surgeon’s knot (a square knot with an extra loop) is my favorite knot for bead stringing. If I use glue, I use GS Hypo Cement made for jewelers. The chemicals in other glues can destroy the thread over time.
Fishing Line comes in two types: plastic string and wax-infused braided thread . The plastic string is an inexpensive but weak material because it stretches, kinks and is breakable. The wax-infused braided fishing thread is great for bead stringing and weaving. Power-Pro and Fire-Line are both great products. Wax-infused braided fishing thread is the only type of thread that I would recommend for bead stringing on bracelets.
The wax-infused braided thread has a very high tensile strength and is fray resistant. Bugle beads and rough edged beads won’t cut through the line. The braided thread is ideal for bead weaving projects that require tight tension. It is already conditioned and has very minimal stretch. You can get this thread in the fishing department in standard fishing colors, but bead stores carry it in white and gray/green. It comes in several thicknesses. This thread is hard to cut: use the part of the scissor blades that is close to the handles. A thread zapper also works great.
Nymo is a flat upholstery thread that is popular for bead weaving. Nymo comes in a wide selection of colors and thicknesses. Thickness size D is my favorite because you don’t need to double the thread and it will pass through a 15/0 Japanese seed bead four times with a #12 beading needle. It needs to be stretched and conditioned before use. See the section on conditioning thread. Nymo will fray when used in high tension or with rough edged beads, so it is important to start a new length of thread when the thread starts to show fraying.
Silamide is another beading thread that is widely used. However, I have never tried it so I can only say that some people prefer it to Nymo.
Elastic products are another option. Stretchy material is good for designs that don’t look good with a clasp. It is also a user-friendly material for kids and senior citizens.
Stretch Magic is a product that is inexpensive. It comes in four thicknesses and is strung through the beads by hand. I find that a glued square knot is the best way to tie off Stretch Magic. I don’t recommend this product with expensive beads because it can break from over-stretching and poor knotting.
Gossamer Floss is a specialty elastic that will stretch up to 6 times its resting length. It has great stretch recovery. It can be threaded through beads on a twisted wire needle or with a big-eye needle. I like to use it to make loop closures on bead-weaved items and with watch faces. I find that a glued square knot is the best way to tie off Gossamer Floss.
Miscellaneous Fibers such as leather, hemp, waxed cotton, rat tail and other fibers are also options for stringing jewelry. These materials add character to the jewelry and are popular with men and teenagers. They can be attached to the clasp in a variety of ways: knotting, crimping and wire wrapping. I usually use a small dab of glue when using knots or fold-over crimps.
Memory Wire is a specially hardened wire that holds a circular form. Beads are strung on the wire, and it is finished by either gluing on half-drilled endcaps or bending over the wire ends. The wire is stretched open to wear and springs shut so that a clasp is not necessary. It is extremely difficult to cut or bend, so don’t use ordinary cutters. Industrial size cutters or memory wire cutters are needed. A tip to make bending over ends easier: hold the end over a match flame for 2-3 seconds. Allow it to cool and then bend the wire. The heat softens the wire and makes it lose its “memory”.